Halloween, Dia Del Muerto, High Season, Hot Weather, and Heat Rash

It’s now November, Halloween and Dia Del Muerto are just memories and the early arrivals for high season have begun, but the weather while cooler is still significantly higher than usual. Everyone is running around with fans and carrying “sweat rags” to mop up with. And I sweat! With the slightest exertion I sweat, and frankly even with no exertion I sweat. So I have developed a heat rash. I originally thought I was having hordes of mosquitos attack me on a daily basis, but no it is just heat rash and I am trying everything anyone suggests.

My head perspires and it drips down and all seems to collect in the bra area to the point of being WET. So now I’ve been using, deodorant the antiperspirant type, corn starch and lining my bra’s with panty liners to wick the moisture away from the skin to help heal up this horrid rash. Don’t know which method is most effective, but it is getting better. Probably too much information.

The city decorates with new and interesting decorations for every holiday or season and town looks quite festive.

I had bought a 5lb bag of the red and white starlight mints from Sam’s club as they are my one and only candy luxury I allow myself. The night of Halloween I took half the bag down to Brenda’s Bar and joined friends there handing out candy mints one at a time. They were all gone in 45 minutes, but the kids were adorable. Almost all had costumes, and cute costumes, they were polite and we heard lots and lots of thank you’s. It was a fun evening.

Halloween, a crush of kids and parents enjoying getting treats

Dia Del Muerto got stretched out to a 4 or five day event. Starting with the lighting of a huge Katina at Kyoto Circle, with nightly events at La Concha to a great colorful, lively parade. I’m used to parades giving out candy as they pass by, this one gave shots of tequila. More fun!

The direct flights from Canada and some from the Northern Parts of the Us have started arriving so it reunion time with many old friends and acquaintances, dinners and lunches out and beach gatherings are beginning even though the ocean is like a bathtub.

It’s Thanksgiving time for those of us from the US and several restaurants do a good job of preparing what we call a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. But I have vowed to never again go to a restaurant for Thanksgiving dinner here or anywhere as I am probable the only person in the world who doesn’t like or eat turkey, mashed potatoes or gravy. But I love stuffing, and cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie. So unless someone invites me to home pot luck type dinner I will make my stuffing and I have a few cans of cranberry squirreled away and I will have my own feast.

Back in the day when I was the cook for my family who loved all of the fixings I used to make a great turkey soup from the left overs, I miss having turkey soup.

Happy Thanksgiving and signing off KO

My 1 year Anniversary

I have now lived in Zihuatanejo for a full year. I’m often asked “any regrets” and I can say absolutely none. For me it was the right thing to do. In making this move I have become a minimalist. Not only was it not practical to move a lifetime of acquired stuff to Mexico. But I live in a one bedroom apartment with very little cupboard space and no real storage space. So if it isn’t used daily there is no place for it. And that has become surprisingly freeing. I am still continuing to cull unnecessary items.

The other thing I’m asked is how did you manage the summer heat and humidity? Well, surprisingly well. My apartment is well situated to catch the breeze of the bay which is only a little over a block away. I had installed sun screen pull down shades for my balcony and with the ceiling fans in each the living room, kitchen, and bedroom I didn’t turn on the air-conditioner until the last couple of weeks of the 90+ degree weather and then only for a couple of hours in the late afternoon. The only real issue with the heat was I developed a heat rash and didn’t realize what it was until it became quite uncomfortable. I just thought I was being chewed up by mosquitos. Once I knew what it was and got it under control I was much more comfortable.

Last night the bay and the sky became the same color after sunset

I thought it might be lonely without my large circle of female friends that keep me so busy during the high season, and while I missed them there were still my friends who live here full time to keep company and to go and do things with.

I took a major trip, a 3 week African Safari this summer and a shorter 5 day trip to Cancun for my sons wedding. And I will plan on taking a big trip every summer. And yes I travel alone and throughly enjoy it.

King of the jungle enjoying fresh Cape buffalo
My son Brian and his beautiful bride Nancy

Signing off KO

A WEDDING IN CANCÚN

Walking in with Brian to his wedding

A week ago I traveled to Cancun for my youngest son Brian’s wedding. It was my first trip to Cancun and my first experience with an all inclusive resort. I found it interesting, but not the Mexico I know and love. My daughter April and son Shawn also made the trip as did Haeley my granddaughter who is Brian’s daughter. My other daughter Jeanette was unable to attend. So it was a bit of a family get together for me and it was also for the bride as 3 of her 4 daughters were in attendance along with her parents and one of her brothers.

The happy couple

It was raining the afternoon of the wedding but thankfully it cleared up and the kids had their lovely beach wedding. I was happy to officiate it. They had one unexpected guest show up, a baby turtle wandered by just as they were saying their vows. He had escaped from the group that was going to be released that evening. And of course they took that as a sign of good luck.

Uninvited but welcome guest.

It was a fun week with a snorkel cruise in the lovely turquoise water. The captain really didn’t want me to go snorkeling as they drop you off and then you swim with the current back to the boat. He kept saying that it’s an activity that isn’t recommended for people over 65. Everyone told him I would be just fine.

Son Shawn on the boat, daughter April in the background.

My daughter and I took a trip to see the pyramids and Mayan ruins at Chichanitza and then went swimming at a “cenote”. The Yucatán area has many of these large pools of underground water. A true tropical paradise, it was amazing.

As we were staying at an all inclusive I decided I would bring my list of drinks that

The ultimate favorite, a Sidecar

I had heard or read about and never had tried. Since this was an all inclusive it seamed like the proper time to experiment. Managed to try 7 of the 13 on my list but so enjoyed the side car I kept going back for more.

Me, Brian,April,Shawn 3/4 of my kids

It was a great time, the hotel was fabulous and we really enjoyed it. But I wasn’t too impressed with Cancun. The turquoise water is lovely, but colder than the Pacific. Cancun struck me as Las Vegas without the glitter. Each hotel trying to out do each other in size and shape. There seemed to be very little activity on the street, I guess everyone stays in their own hotel. But then I’m a small town girl, used to lots of street life.

I’ve had a heck of a time trying to post this. My iPad refuses to up load my pictures so this has been written and edited on my phone. Far more difficult. That’s why it has taken me so long to post anything. Signing off KO

September in Zihuatanejo

August ended giving us a spectacular “blue moon” which of course wasn’t blue at all just the 3rd full moon of the month and also close to earth. A photographers delight.

September is supposed to be a very wet month, but not this year. We are very short on rainfall. We have only a half dozen nights of rain fall and not even all night long rains. It is raining as I write this, one of the few day time rains I have experienced and it definatly cools everything down a few welcome degrees.

Zihuatanejo is all dressed up in her new finery. Town looks great, very festive.

September 16 is Dia de La Independencia. It is celebrated by displaying the National colors of red white an green of the flag, dressing in similar colors and shouting “viva” at midnight. Zihuatanejo has a parade, which I heard but didn’t watch and it it the only month where you can get “chiles in nogada”. I wish I had taken pictures of the dish that was served at the fiesta at La Kalle that night but I guess I was more interested in eating it that photography. It’s a beautiful dish composed of a stuffed poblano Chile smothered in a white walnut sauce sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and chopped walnuts garnished with mint leaves. Lovely presentation. It was a lovely fiesta.

I’m headed to Cancun Friday for my youngest sons wedding. So glad he has found happiness with Nancy. His last couple of years have been tough ones but now he has a sole mate. So a wedding, a bit of a family reunion and 5 days of fun are ahead.

My son Brian and his lovely lady Nancy

I’m a list maker. I have talked about my list of a hundred books that I am working my way through. Well for the Cancun trip I have a new list. I have entitled this list “ Drinks that I have wondered about but didn’t try because I didn’t want to pay for something I might not like”. Or worse having someone else pay and then not drink it. So with this being and all inclusive I thought it the perfect time. Some of these are drinks I have read about, or old standards that have lost fashionability. So here is my list.

DRINKS THAT I HAVE WONDERED ABOUT BUY WAS TOO CHEAP TO TRY

Harvey’s Bristol Cream

Manhattan

Old Fashion

Whiskey Sour

Sidecar

BlackRussian

Pims Cup

Singapore Sling

Dirty Martini

Rob Roy

Chichi

Champagne Cocktail

Dads Counsel

I plan to take notes and will report my opinions. Signing off KO

EVERYDAY LIFE IN TANZANIA

We visited a local school this morning, a government sponsored public school. There are a total of 11 teachers assigned to this K-7 school, with one teacher out ill and another doing some additional education so only 9 were actually teaching the 670 students that attend. That’s a class load of over 70 students per teacher. There is a real shortage of teachers and my guess there is a real shortage of money to pay them. There are a large number of private schools where the student teacher ratio is much different. The kids were charming, we sang “Row,row,row your boat ‘ to them and then they joined in with us as they already knew the words and then sang it as a round.

At this level their classes are in Swahili with English being one of their subjects. They spoke a little English with us, but you could see it was difficult for them as they are nowhere near fluent. Once they reach what we call high school all classes will be taught solely in English. We taught them how to fold paper air planes and then took them outside to fly their planes. They thought that was fantastic and had a great time. They had a few questions for us and drug us to their desks to sit with them which was quite difficult as they were already sitting 3 to a desk. The children were remarkably well behaved, all in the required uniform, but many of the uniforms were just-about worn out and in need of some serious repair so you know what a hardship it is for some families to even have their kids in public schools. They have a lunch room and grow a garden to help supplement the lunch menu. Also parents are expected to help pitch in with basic supplies, both school and for lunches. The tour company I’m traveling with has a foundation that helps support this school and many others in Africa.

Following the school visit we went shopping at one of the many roadside markets to buy supplies to bring to a local family’s home where we were going to help cook a meal. The men did the prepping and we ended up with a lovely meal of a dish chickpea and hominy, a rice dish and a spinach dish and meat and vegetable dish and polenta.

We finished up the day with a stop at a tourist market where they were doing some wood carvings

Wood carver at work.

This will be my last African blog as tomorrow is the last day and then we begin the trek home. Signing off KO

IN THE HEART OF MASAI COUNTRY

The Masai tribe are located in Kenya and Tanzania. Most are being assimilated into modern Africa but deep in the heart of Masai country there are many clans that have resisted modern ways and are clinging to their ancient traditions. We have learned about the custom of removing a front lower tooth at about the age of ten and of other scaring that brand them as Masai. We have learned about the ceremonies of circumcision at about age 15 for males and female castration at the same age. The ceremony for males continues today but it is now illegal for the female castration, although sorrily it is still quite prevalent.

The Masai are polygamists, in the village we visited the chief has 3 wives and 15 children. The first wife is chosen by the the husbands father and the wife is paid for in cows. Future wives are chosen by the husband.

The women build their mud huts, and yes they still do live in them. They women ‘Remud’ them every two to 3 weeks to keep them in good shape. They do the cooking, the milking and the childcare and the men tend the cattle and goat herds. They wear their traditional dress all the time. Their faces are unlined and they appear happy. They sing while they work. We watched them grind corn , two women with a large heavy wood pestle alternating the pounding while singing a rhythmic song. I gave it a try and had difficulty keeping the rhythm with the heavy pestle. They women do intricate beadwork, and basket weaving. From my view point the women do almost all the work while the men watch over the live stock and provide security for the livestock and the village. They no longer hunt as hunting wild animals is illegal. And folks who are found poaching just seam to disappear and are never seen or heard from again.

We watched the men dance and were amazed at the heights they spring straight up to. The women have a shoulder shaking rhythm they do, not a shimmy but more of a shrug which is quite effective with the large beaded collars they wear.

The men dancing and springing straight up
Starting a fire the matchless way

The children are now being educated up to the 7th grade as this chief is progressive. Children who pass exams can go on to secondary school. The school is located about a two hour walk away from the village and walking is the only transportation. I’m glad the children are being educated but I believe that education will also end up being the demise of village life as they know it now. Another fascinating day.

Signing off KO

I CAME TO AFRICA TO SEE THE ANIMALES

[I came to Africa to experience the wildlife, but two of my most enjoyable experiences have been with the people. A couple of days ago as we were heading out for our game drive our guide noticed drawings on the side of a building and thought it was unusual. So we stopped and she introduced herself to the owner and a few minutes later this very large man came out and welcomed us all to his home and explained the drawings. One was a small cow with brown spots and that represented the cow he had now that produced10 litters of milk a day. The large cow represented a cow that produced 30 liters of milk a day. There were drawings of the trees that he plants to produce the leaves that feed his cow. Then there was the drawing of a house. Literally he had drawn his business plan on the side of original house which was now where he stored the bags of leaves for feed. He told us that he knew an American cattleman about ten kilometers away that would sell him the cow when he was ready. He also told us the original drawing had show a goat where the brown cow was and the brown cow was originally where the black and white cow was and his house drawing was smaller.. I have no doubt that this man will gain the high producing cow, build a larger home for his wife and 3 children and continue to grow and profit as he has a very clear plan of what he wants to accomplish.

This clever entrepreneur drew his business plan on the side of his home to keep himself motivated

He invited us into his home, which was quite comfortable showed us the separate kitchen house; and out house and hand washing station. Our guide gave him a nice donation towards his goals and we thanked him for sharing his story with us.

Signing off KO

A HUMBLING EXPERIENCE IN AFRICA

We left Arusha heading towards the Simajiro game area when we spotted a small damed lake where several Masai women were collecting water. We drove down to the lake and our guide introduced our group to the women and delivered to them 4 of the 6 water filters that our group had donated enough funds to purchase. Our guide in conversation learned how they know the water gives them many different illnesses, some requiring a doctors care and costs but this murky lake is there only source of water for which they walk 3 kilometers each direction with jerry cans to collect. She then explained how the water filters work along with pictorial directions and give 4 of the women a complete water filter. This will drastically impact the lives of at least 40 members of their tribe as each woman had families of over 10 people. The organization behind these filters will follow up in the village in 3 months and again in 6 months to document health improvements. The women were so grateful and appreciative. The Masai tribes in Tanzania are clinging desperately to all their traditional ways of village life , in dress, education and family life style. They are polygamous, and have very large families. I will have more to say on that subject after we visit a Masai village and learn more. It was a beautiful but humbling experience.

Our guide explaining to the Masai women why we were there
Collecting the water

I thought she was a beautiful woman and she seemed quite happy

Signing off KO

SAFARI IN AFRICA

I am a novice world traveler and every day I learn more and more on how to manage traveling comfortably. The first thing I have learned is do not worry and stress over things. What every you are worrying about won’t happen instead something else you hadn’t even considered will happen. You can’t control the unexpected so just roll with it and cope the best you can.

My one and only bag went MIA on my trip to Africa. All I had with me was my medicine, makeup, purse cell phone,iPad and my kindle. My bag didn’t arrive until 4 days later. But a gentleman from the tour company volunteered to take me shopping for some essentials until my bag showed up, assuming it would show up.

I asked him to take me to a mall where I was sure I would be able to find all I need. After all Nairobi is a city of 5 million people. But since he was dropping folks off at a museum he decided that a down town shopping area would be just fine. It wasn’t to my way of thinking, but none the less after dozens of small shops and tiny stalls I managed to get a track suit , a pair of sweats, 2 T-shirts ,under pants and 2 sports bras which ended up being way to large for me to the point I was falling out of them. Any way that was my wardrobe for the next 4 days. At firsts it upset me as I don’t like dressing sloppy. But met the tour group and off on the safari we went and none of the animals seem to care how many days I wore the same T-shirt so all was good.

We travel in 8 passenger Land cruisers that have a pop top so you can stand up and take pictures with in the safety of the vehicle. They are four wheel drive vehicles as the trails and roads are really rough. My first time to go off roading! We had a driver and a Masai guide and both knew the landscape like the back of their hand made sure we saw all the animals that call the Masai Mara home with the exception of the leopard and the rhinoceros. They are both quite shy and elusive.”’

Our first 4 days in Kenya there were just 5 of us, now that we are in Tanzania we number 12. The weather has been cooler than I expected but this afternoon turned sunny and warmer. Today was a day learning more about the people and their culture, their problems and solutions. Clean water is a major issue throughout Tanzania and we visited a ceramic filter factory that has created a very unique water filtering jug that will service a family of up to 8 people. It actually remove mud and all other impurities from the water by filtering it through what looks like a clay pot. By mixing the clay with pine sawdust and then fireing at a very high temperature you end up with a layer of charcoal sandwiched between 2 layers of clay. We then visited a workshop that helps albino people. I never knew how ostracized and totally rejected albino people in Africa were and what is being done to re-educate people to not be afraid of them or harm them.

Next we visited a cultural museum and huge gift shop to. Pick up some souvenirs and learn about tanzanite, the rarest gem stone on earth and only found in Tanzania. It’s been a busy day and a busy super fun week.

The big 5 to Totem Pole at the museum

A quick mention about our accommodations, the first 4 days we were at a lovely rustic lodge. My cabin was a stone platform with a a roof and canvas side walls that could be zipped off in hot weather with lots of mesh windows. Very comfortable in a wooded setting. Here in Tanzania it is a beautiful garden setting with cabins nestled privately off little paths complete with a fire place that the staff lit for me last night to warm up the room. I’m really getting spoiled on this trip and enjoying every minute of it.

Remember to tap the little pictures to make them big. Signing off KO

SAFARI, HERE I COME

I leave today for the first leg of my African Safari, which will be to the Seattle area for a quick visit with 3 of my 4 children who live in the surrounding West Sound area and hopefully to see friends also. It will give me an opportunity for some last minute shopping for a couple of items that are not available in Zihuatanejo. On the 23rd of July I fly Seattle to Amsterdam, this is a 10 and a half hour flight and then the much shorter flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi. I have planned to spend 1 full day in Nairobi just adjusting to the time difference and un-jet-lagging before the safari begins.

Packing is quite a process for this trip as you are limited to a combined total for your carryon and checked bags of 44 lbs . My suitcase weighs in at 22 lbs and my back pack a 6.6 lbs so I’ll be ok even though I will be adding a couple of small items when I get to Washington. I have learned to travel light.

Not a lot of music entertainment this time of year but I have been particularly enjoying Thursday nights at Casanova’s to listen to the lovely voice of Kerelei. She does old show tunes, some country, lots of Frank Sinatra era with a beautiful, powerful voice that makes me think she is probably theatre trained. Go for dinner or just a drink and stay for the show 7 ish on Thursday evenings. Also I highly recommend Casanova’s gazpacho, mi favorito and the best in Zihuatanejo.

Rain on shine Kerelei will sing all you favorites and yes she does requests

Zihuatanejo remains warm and wonderful. I love it as it only rains at night and with lovely loud, bright thunderstorms, and lovely sunny days. Temperatures do reach the low 90’s, but cools off quickly to pleasant evenings. With that said yesterday I went to Maderas on Playa La Madera for one last beach day. It was lovely and sunny when I arrived and then the wind picked up and blew in some dark stormy clouds and the rains began. Everyone shifted from their beach umbrella tables to ones under full cover even if a bit leaky and watched the storm blow over with heavy thunder. And lightning you could hear sizzle. 45 minutes later it was all over.

A couple of new restaurants have opened up. It has surprised me that they would choose to open during the off season but I’m no expert. Kaizon (and I hope I have spelled it correctly) is located in the old upstair location were El Agave was for many years above the “beadman” on Nicholas Bravo. My friend Judy and I had lunch there and we both agreed it was quite good. I think they will need better signage or they will get overlooked. Then last night I had dinner at El Narvales across from Shimia and Brenda’s bar. I had a marlin taco served “haystack” style that was very tasty. They were out of white wine and offered to go to the store to get it but Brenda brought a glass from her bar across the way and saved them the time and trouble of a store run. Very good dinner. Great cooperation.

But probably the best meal I’ve had all week was breakfast at El Perla Negre, Nellie’s eggs on avocado toast is to die for. And you also get a lovely side salad, which I brought home for my lunch.

I hope to post pictures and comments on face book while on safari. All I’m bringing is my phone camera so probable no super close ups. Signing off KO