On the road toPatzcuaro

Our double decker bus was fantastic,  a little scary in town on tight corners, but this is the only way I want to travel Mexico. And I do want to travel more. It is so much fun, so much amazement and so many “only in Mexico ” moments. We arrived at the bus station in Urupan and had no problem getting a bus to Patzcuaro. But literally it was the “chicken bus” as the folks across from us were traveling with “El gallo” in a box, whom I assume was a fighting cock. But a very well  behaved rooster, we never heard a peep out of him. Dramamin, possibly??

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We had preselected our hotel LA Parroguia

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Hotel La Parroquia

from a previous visit and thought it was on the main square, but the main square was a block or so away. While we liked the hotel, the young woman at the desk was less than accommodating as she had no patience with my limited spanish. There is no heat in the hotel, but wonderful heavy blankets we found in a drawer  that kept us from being to cold. Nights and morings are COLD, daytime very pleasant. We tried to arrange the tour we wanted at the front  desk and gave up and went to the tourist office at the main square. Very, very helpful, especially since he spoke perfect english and helped us arrange a tour. The guide we wanted was already booked,  But he came and met us at the office and offered us us son and daughter. The son spoke no english, but his sister spoke quite well.  We kindly accepted his offer appreciating the excellant customer service. We enjoyed the tour very much, saw a lot even though it wasn’t quite what I  anticipated. We saw lots of  very ancient  churches, towns with  very narrow, rough, cobble stone streets,

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Pryamids

pyramids dating  back to the 8th century,  2 funerals,one rich, one poor. Saw horses and cattle grazing loose, but none of the local craftsmen at work.  Missed the pictureof the cart pulled  by 2 ox. Nonetheless it was a great day.

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Church

I’ve been using my limited spanish a lot here as not many speak english. I do the reading of menus and the ordering of meals for the Senor and myself . I’m a much more adventurous eater than the Senor. He needs to know what is in everything before taking a chance. So far everything  I’ve eaten has been an adventure and a good one at that.  Can’t wait for dinner.

I’m  in a  bit of computer hell here, I  can only get the tablet to work which won’t let  me caption pictures, or move them to the right place so please bear with  me

chicken box.     Signing off KO

BIG BUSES, LITTLE BUSES, HUGE BUSES AND OTHER TRANSPORTATION

I have never ridden a bus in my home town. One of my job skills when I worked at the Work Release facility was teaching our “residents” how to travel the county by bus within very exact time constraints, but i never rode the bus. A couple of years ago my friend Babe and I rode the Greyhound bus from Montana to Tacoma Wa after delivering my granddaughter’s truck to her at Yellowstone. And it was not a comfortable trip, one I would not want to do again. But here in Mexico I am a bus rider. Here in Zihuatanejo they range from super luxurious to how the hell do they keep it on the road.

There is a huge fleet of little combi busesOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA, they are vans out fitted with benches all the way around and standing room in the center,2015-02-01 15.23.40 I have been on one with 19 other folks, very crowded, very mexican.They are very inexpensive, 7 pesos around town. You never have to wait more than a few minutes and they go everywhere. Unfortunately there is no printed schedule or bus route map so I don’t know where half of them go. Or which ones will take you to some of the places I might want to go, so I walk one way and it’s easy once you are there to take any bus that says El Centro and you’ll get back to our part of town. So 7 pesos vs 25 pesos for a cab in town,and 10 pesos vs 65 pesos to go to Ixtapa, I’m learning the bus system.  A few more years and I’ll be expert, able to teach everyone how to use it

The other day  I went to the bus station and bought tickets for a first class bus trip to Patzcuaro for our 2-3 day mid February side trip.. This should be real luxury as our tickets are for the second floor with the vista dome windows, these buses usually come complete with a stewardess and are far more luxurious than 1st class airplane travel. Out of necessity I did the entire transaction with my fractured spanish, I had a little trouble with the word “piso” which is within my learned vocabulary, but momentarily forgotten.  But we soon got it straightened out that I did want the 2nd “floor” on the bus, and the 2 very front seats.
The waiters in town speak very good english, but the personal at the bus station  nada, nunca, none.

Luxury bus
Luxury bus

The Senor teases me about my Spanish, but I know he appreciates what I have learned as he stays at the apartment and sends me out to buy tickets, or hands me money and asks me to order meals, or other purchases. We will see how well I do on our adventure to Lake Patzcuaro tomorrow. It will be just a 3 day outing with my goal being the trip around the lake to visit the villages where each one specializes in a certain craft. I have no idea as to Internet availability or if I will be able to post, but I’m really looking forward to this side trip. 2 10 15 Signing off KO

A DAY WITH NO PICTURES

I made plans with my friend Bonny to go snorkeling at Ixtapa Island on Monday and fortunately nothing interfered. We were to meet at the bus stop at 9:00, both of us were there about 8:30, and so it appears that we are both morning people. 12 pesos later we were on our way to Playa Linda to catch the boat to the island. I made sure I had plenty of small change for tips for the men who haul  me on and off the pangas. My knees are holding up pretty good this year but I do appreciate the help. Ixtapa Island has the best snorkeling, there are so many fish and so many varieties and the swim all around you.  Sometimes a whole school of beautiful, multicolored fish would swim right through your path. The only issue with Ixtapa Island is that I could use a couple of the boat men to help me out of the water. Between the waves and the shifting sand under my feet, I feel a bit like a beached whale trying to get up right.  Not a pretty site!  I try to take some pictures of the crowd with my cell phone camera, but all it will say is camera failed. So a whole day of fun activity and eating a visiting and no pictures Later back at la casa I  pulled the battery, waited a few minutes and replaced it and the camera works fine. Wished I’d thought of doing that sooner.Even with the camera I wouldn’t have been able to get these marvelous pictures of the fish we swam with.  Here are just a few we saw.

Some of the fish we swam with
Some of the fish we swam with

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A A couple of beach drinks, and an order of garlic shrimp later and another swim with the fishes and we need to board the boat for the return trip. I stop at the mercado to pick up some celery and Bonny goes on to offer to show an Ixtapa couple where to get off for the tourist a market even though it is out of her way. She loves Zihuatanejo and want every one to enjoy it to the fullest. Great day at the beach. Signing off KO

77 AND STILL ROCKS THE HOUSE

 

The great Jimmi Mamou
The great Jimmi Mamou

Friday was Jim Mamou’s  77th birthday, and it was quite the party.  One we almost missed. Being both retired and on vacation mode we can get a little fuzzy on days and dates, and we were sure that it was only Thursday, not Friday. Sure glad we figured it out in time to be there.

The Senor dancing with our friend Josephine while Jimmi played "Josephine"
The Senor dancing with our friend Josephine while Jimmi played “Josephine”

Daniel’s  was packed with admiring fans. Jimmi has been entertaining fans in Zihuatanejo for the past 12 years after having come as a featured performer at “Guitarfest” and never left. And for that we are thankful.

Jimmi and Kim
Jimmi and Songstress Kim Marcoux

Nobody plays good old rock and roll, and blues any better. Jimmi had everyone was on their feet dancing.  Jimmi wife, Judy also entertained us with a song and graciously shared with us a short bio on Jimmi’s music career and the greats he has played with. Also joining Jimmi in song was the blues songstress Kim Marcoux. The entire event was filmed , so maybe next year we might find or selves on his next CD.

Computer issues are sure slowing me down, we arrived with a laptop, a net book and a tablet and of course the smart phone.  The Laptop is the Senor’s TV which we access through streaming from our home TV system. The others are for me to play with.  Well the net book has died, stuck on “resolving picture issue” that even a “control alt delete” won’t stop stop it.  My tablet is so new, I’m just barely able to use it, and still haven’t been able to edit pictures with it. I do better (not good) editing on the smart phone. So getting time on the computer can be a challenge so my blog seems to run a little behind.  I guess it is also on “Mexican time”. 02 09 15 Signing off KO

SAILING, SAILING, OVER THE BOUNDING MANE, WELL SORT OF

Sailfest’s sail parade is one of the most popular and en joy able events. For a mere 300 pesos you sign up for adays ride on one of the many sailboats that have arrived to help invest in the future of the local children.

Crowd gathering on the pier
Crowd gathering on the pier

It’s a bit of a “cluster” at the beginning, all the participants arrived at the pair  before the organizers, with everyone wondering  what’s going to happen. Once folks find out the name of their boat and gather together loading goes fairly smooth. You first get on a panga to take you out to your assigned boat.  I was on the Patricia Belle and it took 3 boat loads to load her 30 passenger and before we set sail 2 more arrived. So you can see what a massive job this is as I think  there were 20 or so sail  or power boats with over a hundred guests to be loaded.

The Patricia Belle is a very large wooden boat hand-built by its captain from trees on his own property,

Exterior of cabin built with trees from near the Bear Creek store , Old Belfair Highway
Exterior of cabin built with trees from near the Bear Creek store , Old Belfair Highway

aside from the captain and his lady they had  a crew of 3 who were  very informative, accommodating  and hardworking . It’s quite a job to raise the large heavy sails by hand. Shortly after boarding  the boat I learned the  captain was not only from our town of Port Orchard, WA where he built his boat was just a short was from us. He was building his boat at the same time  my father-in-law was building his boat. Not only was he familiar with the boat, he had a tally done some work on it for him. Truly a small planet!

Captain of the Patricia Belle
Captain of the Patricia Belle

Aside from the personal connection, this was one  of the best sailfest voyages I have ever participated in. Many of the guests were better prepared than I  and took advantage of the wait time from boarding  to sail time and took a refreshing dip in the bay. The crew showed off their skill at swinging from a rope to enter the water just before one would hit the  boat broad side.

The swimmers and a swinger
The swimmers and a swinger

Even a couple of the braver guest tried it. The boat was roomy, even with that a y people aboard you could walk around and find  either sun or shade. It was a very friendly crowd, my wine glass sippy cup was a hit.

Wine glass "sippy" cup.
Wine glass “sippy” cup.

We spotted a few dolphins, I’ve given up trying to photo such sites as I never quite get the picture, and get so  busy trying to get the picture I don’t really get to watch the dolphins. Today I  enjoyed the dolphins. After the parade, and a bit more swimming,  the Captain returned us to the bay where we were promptly picked up by I’m sure was a pretty arranged panga and our wonderful day on the water came to a close. I will return to the Patricia Belle next year, but with a swimsuit. 02 06 2015 signing off KO

 

SAILFEST IS UPON US

Xpresion Immune

Projects that Sailfest did for the community in 2014
Projects that Sailfest did for the community in 2014

This first week of February is full of Sailfest activities, there is definitely something for everyone.  And  it’s a wonderful opportunity to meet folks from all over the world and do some good for the children of Zihuatanejo.    Last night at the concert the opening with the “The Brothers Mendosa”  very traditional mexican strolling trubadores, followed by the very talented Mexican gentleman whose name I can’t remember, and should have as he was excellent singing a variety of songs about  Zihuatanejo.

 Songs of Zihuatanejo

Songs of Zihuatanejo

Next on the bill was the very, non traditional Mexican hold time rock and roll band,

Xpressions Immune
Xpressions Immune

Xpresion Immune. These young Mexican musicians had all most everyone up on their feet dancing and swaying to the music.  They have become  favorite of the snowbird  crowd who first became acquainted with them last year when they played on the street for tips, hopefully someone  will help them get a Cd together. They would really sell here. The next  group was the extremely popular rock and roll band headed up by long time, Zihuatanejo musician Steve Calvert that also had the same effect on the  crowd, having everyone on their feet rocking  and rolling to the music we all grew up with. We were disappointed that Michelle LaValle had to cancel as she is one of our favorites, so as Steve was winding up the hour was getting late for the Senor ,we headed out for a  night cap at the Flophouse bar.

Chilli cook off
Chilli cook off

Thursday is the Senor’s favorite event, the chili cook off and silent auction. The Senor loves the chili as long as it doesn’t have too much heat, and I don’t care for spicy at all and just stick with the key lime pie. The Senor also loves an auction, something about the thrill of the win.

Since we had won 2 dinners the night before through the raffles, we decided that we would plan on just picking up 2 more dinners. These auctions can become a contest of who is more determined than who to win despite the cost, but

One of several silent auction tables
One of several silent auction tables

the Senor was on his best behavior and when the prices got to high he said well we can just go there anyway. Our big desire was the lunch at La Chula Vida on Playa Blanca, as we had one of our most memorable evenings there last year with friends, but we will just have do it on our own as it wasn’t to be ours this year. A couple of dinners later the auction was over for us and we retreated to the shade. Another great event, another great day. Only to be followed by Fridays sail boat parade, another day another story. 02 05 2014 Signing off KO

VERY RANDOM THOUGHTS

While selling T-shirts for Sailfest the other day I saw the police in action for the very first time.  They have a huge presence here, but all I see them do is ride around it trucks in large groups. But this afternoon a fellow must have had too many and choose to sleep it off in the sand, unfortunately he fell asleep with his trunks at half mast, sunning  or airing his buns in the sun.  This seems to be frowned upon as the Policia arrived and woke him up and made him move on.

Policia at work
Policia at work

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The Senor likes Spaghetti. So I fixed it for his dinner the other night. Our kitchen is not fully equipped, basic cooking equipment only. Since I’m a very basic cook that works great .  Most of the time!  But I have no colander to drain the spaghetti.  Time to improvise better use. I ladle the spaghetti into the bag, it drains and works like a charm

straining spaghetti
straining spaghetti

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Today at the Ecco Tianguis I bought what constitutes art for me, a beautiful native statue made locally from paper mache, I think she is gorgeous, the Senor had a different comment. Signing off 02 01 15 KO2015-01-31 21.30.35

FROM FRUIT TO ART

I’m really  enjoying my morning routine of walking to the pool, swimming, then busing back to el mercado, do a little  shopping for fresh fruits, veggies and eggs on pretty much a daily basis. At home this is a chore, I would do once or twice a month, but here it is an adventure. I’ve tried several different fruit vendors and have settled on one that will help me select what I need if I ask.  I used to deal with one where a grouchy lady took the money and would select my avocados, but twice in a row she gave me over ripe avocados, so now I go else where. Some of the amazing art isn’t in galleries but on walls for all to enjoy.

Horse race mural on wall coming back from the pool
Horse race mural on wall coming back from the pool

Also the fruit cart man stops by our apartment and today I was able to buy just a baggie of papaya.  A whole papaya is too much for us even thought we frequently breakfast on just a variety of fruits.

I do ok at the fish mercado, but when it comes to meat at the carnecerias I just don’t see anything I recognize as a steak for the Senor. So I buy them at the commercial.

Art gallery across the street
Art gallery across the street

I really enjoy the many art galleries here.  I have learned that I can’t afford art so I treat these galleries as one would a museum, look but don’t touch, ask before phtographing. But art casn be found in many, many places here.

Another wall mural
Another wall mural

 

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BUYING FISH AT EL MERCADO

Whole mahi mahiSomeday I will try buying  fish directly from  the fishermen, but for now my language, and  the required bartering skills aren’t aren’t  there yet. I do good just dealing  in El Mercado.  Within el mercado there is a meat market, a chicken market, and a huge fish  market, each with many individual proprietors. I

Filleting the fish
Filleting the fish

return to the same stall I have used before as she is helpful  and friendly, even though she speaks no English. We establish that I  want Mahi mahi, even though there is mahi mahi on display, she calls out to her helper who produces a whole fish I’m sure was still swimming a couple of hours ago..

I watch as she skill full removes the  head and tail, divides  him in half, removes the bone and whats left of the  bloodline, and skins him.  A few short   minutes  later I’m  showing her how big  of a piece I want, and  I m out the door with enough fish for 2 meals, for 85 pesos.

Before
Before
after
after

 

 

 

The workmen are coming along nicely with the project across the street, they have been putting on tiles all day.  They start by carrying them in bundles from the street corner to the work site, then carrying them up the ladder and then individually placing each one.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Signing off KO 1 26 15

CONSTRUCTION PROJECT

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Ricket scafolding
Rickety scaffolding

We have been watching with interest  the removal and repair of the tile overhang on the side-walk across the street. Two of the buildings lost their overhang in last year’s good Friday earthquake, and the third just needed replacing. The Mexican people work very hard, and with little help from modern technology. This is a project of labor with only the barest of hand tools.  I’m amazed and somewhat horrified at what is being used as scaffolding  for the ensuring work, and the fact that the men work in “hurrachies “instead of steel toed boots while working with huge bags of cement, heavy tiles and timbers. The Senor groans every time he sees two men on a ladder,  or coming down the ladder like a stair case. His years of working”hazmat” and being safety officer just have him shaking his head. They mix the cement on the flat roof of one of the buildings, then shovel it into a 5 gallon bucket, lower it by rope to the fellow below who then carries up the ladder to the top of the form for the supporting pillars, pours the contents in, goes down the ladder , throws the bucket up, to the man on the roof  while getting the next bucket off the rope.  All this is happening with pedestrians walking under this construction project and two children playing in front of their mothers shop. Absolutely  fascinating, no TV for us today this is real life drama.  Almost no power tools, the wood is notched with a machete, they work very hard through the heat of the day and are real craftsmen. I am so impressed but at the same time fear for their safety.

When they clean up at the end of the day, they do their best to block off holes the holes they have dug so no one falls in them, but none of the yellow tape we are so used to seeing  around construction projects is ever used

Had a nice dinner at La Vita Bella, the Senor loves their Spaghetti and they have good fish. Then met friends at the Flophouse for a couple of drinks.  I sure miss the music they used to have, but it is still one of the nicest friendliest bars in town.  Then on to the Baracruda for some music ending up at Zorros for a night-cap.  We haven’t been out in a week or two but sure made up for it last night. (The Senor is still napping) The Baracruda was featuring a Mexican trio who were quite good and the crowd was lively, so lively that a couple of

Music was so good you would dance with anyone available
Music was so good you would dance with anyone available

fellows got silly dancing with each other, when one sat down and the other sat in his lap bumping our table, drinks hit the floor, glasses broke I got a bit wet, but” no problema’.  The gentlemen kindly bought us new drinks,  all part of the fun.  I think I have finally discovered my drink, Sangria which is basically a red wine punch. It comes in a tall glass, is ver2015-01-24 22.13.53y refreshing, very pretty and not too potent.  I’ve never been a “sipper”, the Senor reminds me “your not drinking coffee” so I like a tall drink or it disappears too quickly.  While I like white wine, it’s quite expensive and you only get served half a glass. That has always frustrated me. So Sangria it is.