Uncategorized – Page 29

BARRE DE POTOSI

Yesterday with friends Will and Sylvia we headed to catch the Pentalon bus to Los Achotes where we will get off and take the” pasajara”, which is a lovely word for an old pickup truck with benches in the bed and covered with a tarp for shade, to Barre de Potosi. We have been there before, but were particularly interested in going this year as we had heard about how the hurricane had greatly changed the landscape. Well Mother Nature may have made changes, but to us they were hardly noticeable as the water has begun to recede and there maybe less beach but to us not very noticeable. The beach is lovely and stretches as far as the eye can see. We had a nice

lunch of fish, mine was fish stew. While it is very tasty, I have to get the head and tail out of my bowl before I can start eating it There was a very sweet and very pregnant beach dog who thoroughly enjoyed what I couldn’t eat as I always get served more than I can eat.

could be used for weaving or a variety of other crafts as they are quite uniform in size an seemed strong yet flexible. Later the Senor and I walked into the town, well not exactly a town, a dusty road with a variety of building houses everything from homes to hotels and tiny eating places. There is a beautiful, yet very simple church complete with bell. Of course my camera was back at the enmarada with Will and Sylvia. After having taken a couple of walks it was time for desert, Sylvia and I went for neapolitan , the senor ordered a banana split and Will stuck with cervesa. The senor’s banana split was a sliced banana with the 3 scoops of neopolitan ice cream with chocolate sprinkles on top and four wafer cookies on the side, he pronounced it delicious, but could have done with out the sprinkles.

Sylvia trying to decide what cleaver things could be done with the roots

No sooner did our ice cream arrive, that the ice cream man came by. This is the ice cream that comes out of the galvanized tub. Now this is what I call real ice cream, I’m sure it is home-made, not commercially made. He will have 2 or 3 flavors usually there will be coconut and vanilla, but I have also had lime or chocolate. Today he had vanilla and coconut, so after polishing off our neopolitian Sylvia and I each got a different flavor and shared 1/2 with each other. We both think the vanilla is the best, it isn’t white, but more off a lite creamy beige. I truly believe the very best ice cream comes from the ice cream men with the galvanized tubs on

This what "real" vanilla ice cream looks like — This what “real” vanilla ice cream looks like

wheels. We always enjoy a day trip to Barre de Potosi, but it is way to quiet and remote for us for any longer than a day.

Signing off KO

LA PLAYA, SUNRISE AND MORE

Tuesday we had a great day at the Playa Las Gatas Beach with friends Will and Sylvia. I’m not sure life gets anymore comfortable than a lazy beach day. People watching, seeing the kids play in the water and in the sand, watching a toddlers first water experience, seeing the passing boats and the birds in the sky all with a drink in

your hand, toes in the sand and good food on the way. It seems like life just couldn’t be better. The Senor has his favorite waiter Jose, who says he speaks very good restaurant English, but he would like to speak much more. The Senor like to talk so they talk together while I swim and snorkel. This day

I swam clear around the reef. I probably should check the tides next time as in places it was so shallow you could hardly swim and I don’t like to get to far away from the reef because of boat traffic.

Wednesday we expected it to be the day that Lety, comes to clean our apartment so we decided to take the bus to Ixtapa and just walk and prowl around. We looked in the stores, ate ice cream and then I saw my hat. This is the hat I’ve been looking for 2 years. I had seen another woman wearing it, I asked her where she got hers, she couldn’t remember I even suggested she put it up for auction at sailfest so I could bid on it. I have been coveting this hat, fearing I would have to mug this woman to get this hat and here it was in Ixtapa just waiting for me. Now she is safe and I have my hat, it’s a beautiful raffia course woven hat, light brown in color and it’s mine at last. While I was making my purchase, The Senor ran into our friend Charlie and visited with him while waiting for me. We had a nice lunch at Frank’s where we ran into other friends that live seasonally in Ixtapa. We have come to really feel like this a home away from home.

Wednesday evening we were invited to Vickie’s birthday party at the Flophouse. Where we met more new friends and learned more about people’s experiences who have seasonally lived here for over 20 years. The cupcakes were beautiful, the company wonderful and were so pleased to be able to help Vickie celebrate her special day.

I’ve been trying for days to get out to the beach to catch the sun rise and I’m usually just to late to catch the real color. well yesterday I did, but clouds were at a minimal and I should have gone out this morning when thee were lots of clouds to catch and reflect the color. Anyway yesterday was good if not great and I love to watch the day begin. Signing off KO

THINGS I HAVE LEARNED AND THINGS I AM LEARNING OR NEED TO LEARN

Since the Senor and I have been coming to Zihuatanejo for several years we begin to think we know the lay of the land, much of the customs and culture, and many friends and acquaintances. We know when to greet someone with Buenos Dias, Buenos Tardes and when it changes to Buenos Noches. I am steadily improving my pronunciation, but am far from skilled. But every day we learn more.

Casa del Mar where we call home in Zihuatanejo

We know a smile is always returned, I know if I get confused on money at the Mercado and hold out a hand full of change they will take exactly what they have charged and no more. We have learned our way around the Commercial and no longer have to hunt for specific items. We have learned that we can buy almost anything we do at home here, but not red and white peppermint candies, and no “jimmy Dean” type sausage.

We know where our Doctor is and can find a Dentist we like, and an optician. We know where many of the popular

Fishing boats and pier in the background

restaurants are, and which are our favorites.

We have learned that we do not want dinner until after dark, 7 has become our dinner time as it has cooled down to perfect. We know we prefer to eat breakfast and dinner outside. We have learned to walk slowly as there is no need to hurry as we might miss something like a beautiful flower that only blooms at night

We know where to get our pedicures and manicures, we have learned what the price of a taxi to different locations is. We have learned that taxi drivers aren’t tipped. We have learned where to hail a taxi (anywhere you see one). We have learned to state the location we are going and the price we are willing to pay before we get in the cab. If they say no and give a different price we know it’s our choice to send him on his way, negotiate further or accept it, get in and pay his price.

We have learned to ride the bus when possible over a taxi as it is only 10 pesos or less to most places. We also know walking is a great way to get around too. We have learned the value of a siesta each day.

We know that you can’t count on any business being open between 2 and 5. Most nearly anything is negotiable, and in some locations you have spoiled the fun of the sale if you don’t haggle a little. We’ve learned the first sale of the day is considered lucky as is the last and some say you might be able to swing the best deal then.

We know the streets will be swept each morning by a person, not a machine, and the beach will be raked just after sun up. We know everyone works hard in Mexico as most work is done by hand. We know Mexican time is approximate, we have learned that manana doesn’t necessarily mean tomorrow, it just means not today. Few

Fruit, veggies and eggs bought at the mercado

Mexicans smoke, and family and extended family are very important.

Everyone seems to have a cell phone, but not teenagers. Mexican people text because it is part of the plan, voice calls are expensive and are billed to the caller only. So you never ask a Mexican friend to call you. You make the call to them.

We have learned to love Zihuatanejo, with its quirks, differences and sameness. Signing off KO

SUNSET AT THE CATALINA

The senor and I took one of our certificates we won at the Sailfest Auction to the Catalina Hotel, now called the Catalina Beach Resort. Our plan was

the sunset. We arrived to early, about 5:30 so we went to the bar for a drink before ordering dinner. That was a mistake, don’t order your drinks until happy hour 2×1 starts as the drinks are the most expensive we have had in Mexico. But that was the only mistake of the evening. The Catalina is beautiful, both the dinning terrace and the Sunset Bar terrace For dinner we shared a huachinango, red snapper the Senor had a tomato Salad and I had my favorite soup, Cream of Avacado, which is served cold. We had a bottle of white wine and following dinner we headed down to the bar terrace to enjoy the sunset with the bottle of wine. There we ran into two groups of friends who were also enjoying the sunset. This is a great place to enjoy the sunset during happy hour 6-8.

On my morning walk I was hoping to photograph the sun rise, but by the time I got to the beach it was too late, so I opted for some of the beautiful flowers and plants that you see everywhere. My little net book is giving me fits. It is simply not co operating, I’m regularly getting messages about “not responding due to long running scripts” and google keeps saying “something’s not right here “Yea I know something isn’t right because I can’t get google to respond. today it wouldn’t let me caption some od the pictures or place them where I wanted. It will need an overhaul when I get home. But I must admit I’m beginning to think tablet. Signing off KO

Valentines day in Mexico is huge. It’s never been a big deal in my life, just another day, but here every store adds a complete selection of valentine gifts, the balloon seller are out in force, and the restaurants offer specials. The Senor and I went out for dinner, not so much as it was valentines day as Jimi Mamou was playing at Daniels and they have good steaks.

They were so busy that it took an exceptionally long time to get our food, but Jimi was great as usual and fun to dance to. Half the town turned out for the valentines celebration at the zocolo where they turned the basketball court into a stage and

Usually it is the ladies that take off their shoes to dance

a dance floor with some very good Mexican musicians and singers.

Saturday morning I convinced the Senor to go with me to the Eco Tianguis street bazaar. I should have known better, I’ll leave him at home next time. His idea was to walk through it as quickly as possible with a been there done that attitude. I made him stop long enough for me to buy an “energy ball” treat and a pair of earrings made of recycled plastic and paused a moment to watch the circle dancing then we were out of there and headed for breakfast where we heard the shrill whistle of the knife sharpener.

Following my noon nail appointment to repair the cracked nail from my last fall I headed out to the Commercial for a few supplies. We’ve been here long enough that I’m completely comfortable navigating town on my own, even thought my Spanish is quite limited, I can tell taxi drivers where I want to go, ask for directions, make purchases with out the money totally confusing me. I’ve been to the fabric store a couple of times and bought fabric in the metric system, but there are no patterns in the store. I wonder if there is a store here that just sells patterns?

The senor with a lady in a dress made completely of candy wrappers

The Senor has become tired of the twice weekly serenades by the young Mexican musicians. It amuses me that he complains they play the same thing over and over again, so where do we go for the evening Eloina’s to hear Steve and Allan play oldies but goodies, granted their repertoire is considerably larger but it amuses me. Signing off KO

PATZCUARO AND LAKE PATZCUARO

The Senor and I head out for Lake Patzcuaro this morning following the advice of our desk clerk that you needed to take a bus to Patzcuaro. She was wrong. We flagged a cab right outside our hotel, said bus station and that we were headed to Patzcuaro. Taxi driver said he would take us to Patzcuaro for $300 pesos and it would be ” mucho rapido”. All this was done in Spanish as we have yet to find an English speaking person in Uruapan. Patzcuaro is about an hours drive out of Uruapan through beautiful countryside of avocado trees and pine trees. We brought our sweat jackets as it about 7,000 ft elevation but we never needed them. We arrived at the beautiful and ancient Zocolo in Patzcuaro and wondered why

originally a church, now cultural center

the hell we didn’t by pass Uruapan and go straight to a hotel in Patzcuaro and just take a day trip back to see the National Park. We have not enjoyed Uraupan, we have yet to see a restaurant or a bar, just little places similar to the fondas at the Mercado, most with no place to sit or at best a hard bench.

Patzcuaro is an ancient but beautiful city with a lovely square zocolo surrounded on all 4 sides with shops, small restaurants and hotels. Also many side walk booths displaying a huge variety of crafts. As we arrived hungry we found a nice restaurant for breakfast and then set out to explore the area. the streets and sidewalks are the original cobblestones from the 15th century and of course make walking a challenge for a klutz like me. I tripped on a hole full of water and went sprawling, skinned both my knees, cut my hand and my lip, and cracked a finger nail, but didn’t break my glasses or my camera. Since over the years I’ve come up with a couple of “mersa” type infections and with an artificial joint one has to be careful to avoid infections so the Senor bought peroxide and we cleaned everything well. At least no broken bones. It wasn’t the last time I tripped that day, but I hung on pretty tight to the more sure footed Senor the rest of the day.

Just off the square we wandered into what only could be called and old world bazaar that went on for blocks and periodically branched off on to side alleys. I’m sure you could wander for hours and never see it all. Absolutely huge, with food, clothing house wares, beauty products and of course bakery items. Back at the square I located a hotel we utilize on our next trip to Patzcuaro Hotel Parroquia.

We then took a taxi to “La lancha” about 2 miles across town to catch the launch to the island of Janitizo in the middle of Lake Patzcuaro. My next trip there I will know more about it’s history as there is no literature in English to be found. At the top of this hill island is an enormous statue of someone and it’s embarrassing not to know who it was of. But like lemmings we followed the crowd off the boat and headed up the stairs to the town. No roads, no sidewalks just rough cobble stone stairs clear to the top. The stairs are never more than 10 feet in width and 4 feet in other places with open sided shops and restaurants on both sides all hawking an interesting variety of wares and foods. At the top it is flat with restaurants and bars and a children’s play ground and stairs to the monument.

The monument with out me, the Senor couldn't find me — The monument with out me, the Senor couldn’t find me

I climbed the stairs so the Senor could take my picture at the monument, but then I had to have him come rescue me as the stairs were steep with no railing.

crunchy little fish you ead head and all

On our decent down we picked up a couple of trinkets and gifts, then stopped to eat a restaurant so that I could get some of the little tiny crunchy fish they were selling every where. Of course it was served with sides of rice, beets, lettuce, tomato and cucumber. I couldn’t even finish all the crunchy little fish which was too bad as they were very tasty.

I think these nets are refered to qas butterfly nets

The fishermen in this lake fish with large dip nets and I’m quite sure the little crunchy fish come from the lake. The lake appears to be fairly shallow and at the boat launch area it is full of some type of water lily which appears to be trying to take over one end of the lake. The lake is quite large with several villages around it. We consider this our “recon” trip and plan to return next year as we saw a whole street of woodworking and furniture shops we didn’t have time to take in and have learned of an interesting guided tour of several of the villages around the lake where each village specializes in a different craft or skill. I obviously failed to do adequate home work before this trip next year I will be more knowledgeable. We return home to Zihuatanejo in the morning and are looking forward to our return. Signing off KO

NATIONAL PARK JUST STEPS FROM URUAPAN

Note the trailer loaded with at least 12 cages of puppies. Even the Federales couldn't resist cute puppies. — Note the trailer loaded with at least 12 cages of puppies. Even the Federales couldn’t resist cute puppies.

The bus ride here is a very pleasant 4 hour trip. The bus is air-conditioned to the point of needing a sweater or jacket. We had carefully checked out the day and night temps here before we left and brought our nylon sweat suits. Hope we will be warm enough this evening. Day time is 79 and nights are low of 56 so coming from 89 degree days and 70 degree nights, it’s cool here. Upon leaving the bus depot we hailed a cab and asked to go to the Zocolo, just like guide books and friends recommend. He looked at me like I had suggested a trip to mars. We next gave him the name of a hotel recommended, Hotel Alameda, he then requested we write it down. I hope he was hard of hearing as I know I pronounced the hotel right. He didn’t give us a great feeling of confidence as we started off hopefully for where we asked. Uruapan is a much larger city than I anticipated, but we reached our destination, got our room and all is well. Hotel comfortable, clean, good, but dated. We will miss our 1/2 acre bed back in Zihuatanejo.

We set out to explore the Zocolo and find a place for lunch. This part of town has myriad of stores, small stores, many wedding stores, a large market with tons of little stalls, but no what we would call restaurants that we saw. We did see many tiny restaurants and finally found one that advertised albondigas which we both like. Once inside it was long and narrow with tile walls and in came the loudest street singers I have ever heard. Couldn’t finish our order with the waitress until they left. The menu said they had Menudo which I like, but Greg if you are reading, this it sure isn’t like they serve at the Tienda in Bremerton. It was a thin broth with rice in the bottom. Should have had the albondigas. All that walking wore the Senor out so we went back to hotel for a siesta with plans to walk to the National Park in the morning.

After breakfast at the same café we had dinner we headed out to find the National Park. Street signs pointed the way and it was about a 10-15 minute walk up a steady incline through the oldest part of Uruapan, with interesting buildings and local shops.

The park is so beautiful it is magical. The Senor and I took over 50 pictures and didn’t delete a one. No mater where you look either waterfalls for plants, trees and flowers. I saw a poinsettia tree that was well over 6 ft tall with still a few red leaves. I will say no more about the park and just try to post a few pictures although the computer is really fighting me.

The Federales are here everywhere, there are at least 50-75 or more visible at all times around the zocolo. We walked behind one who carried a 9mm side arm, m16 rifle, and a m60 machine gun. But if you smile at them they will return your smile and I’ve even had one say Buenos Dias to me. We have noticed no bars and haven’t seen any real restaurants just cafes. Had to find a “Merza” to get a bottle of wine. Tomorrow Lake Patzcuaro.
Signing off KO

ON AN ADVENTURA

We are off at 8:00 on a bus trip to Uruapan and Lake Patzcuaro this morning. My little net book is misbehaving so badly it is taking me hours to do anything on it. Picture down loading very slow and I continually get “google is not responding” “Explorer is not responding,” and being a slow typist on top of that left me so frustrated yesterday I gave up. So on the long bus ride I will have time to organize my thoughts and catch up on a couple of days and until Urauapan. Signing off KO

Parhikuni Bus Business Class — Parhikuni Bus
Business Class

I guess I’m not signing off, I can hardly believe this but I am on line on the Parhikuni bus as we travel. No chickens or pigs, but one very upset cat howling in the baggage bay. We are on business class, not first class, but very, very nice. Sure beats the heck out of Greyhound. Our seats recline there is a leg rest like a recliner chair and internet, movies an much more that I can’t figure out!

Our last couple of days have been very busy. We’ve started using our Sailfest Auction dinner certificates. We like to bid on the dinners as it gets us to new places we might not have otherwise discovered. And since auctions for the Senor are all about winning we always pick up several.

View of Zihuatanejo from "Mount Irma" — View of Zihuatanejo from “Mount Irma”

Sunday night we walked to the Hotel Irma for our dinner, the very long way as I thought I knew where I was going. Upon arriving we met friends from my sail boat excursion who refer the hotel as Mount Irma, and I couldn’t agree more. The restaurant was a lovely terrace with a view to die for. The senor’s steak was to his liking but fillet in garlic and butter turned out to be breaded and not to my liking. Our friend had the same fish with the same results.

We had a pleasant walk back downtown thru Calle Adelita where I saw a night blooming tree. Absolutely fantastic! The next night we ate dinner at El Arrayan with friends Will and Sylvia right next to the tree and we were able to watch several of the blossoms opening up while we had a really great mahi mahi. This time it really was in garlic and butter. We topped this off with ice cream with Kahula . Then for a night cap at the

Will, Sylvia, The Senor and I at Las Arrayanas

Flophouse bar. Always so nice to never need a sweater no matter how late you stay.

The day before leaving on this trip I had time to get a pedicure, kind of a orange/bronze color and she then put tiger stripes over. Quite cute! I was then on my way to the little church to light a candle for our friend Jack who reluctantly had to leave Zihuatanejo early with serious health issues when I ran into Iris and Preston at Tres Amigos. We had met them the night of Christine’s birthday party but I was so indisposed that I didn’t get a chance to visit with them. So I visited with them while they lunched and we had a very nice visit that had been missed before.

This was my second trip to the church with the candle as the first time I didn’t see anyway to light, had to return the next day with a clicker. I think one of the reasons we enjoy it here so much is that everything we do here is slower, we take much more time getting from one place to another as we mostly walk, and then we talk and point out different thing that interest us to each other. Our meals are more like events than just a necessity. We meet people on the street and start up conversations with complete strangers and become friends. Here life slows down to a reasonable pace where we really do stop to watch the flowers blooming. From somewhere between Zihuatanejo and Uruapan gazing at very green countryside with the cat still howling in the baggage bay, Signing off KO

BITS AND PIECES AND WHAT BRINGS A SMILE TO MY FACE

The tiles have been removed replaces and the dust that covered everything has been cleaned up our buildings wonderful cleaning lady, Lety. The senor and I are back to our apartment after 2 days in the next door apartment while the work was completed. We noticed while next door that pigeons had laid a pair of eggs in their planter box as well as they had in our box. There is

something very sweet about seeing eggs in their nest, yet sad as I know that we were probably the cause of the nest being abandoned. And if not us a previous tenant.

I enjoy sitting by the waterfront and watching life go by, visiting with friends and strangers. I’m fascinated with the work people do here as I watch the “the ice man commeth”. He makes trip after trip with huge blocks of ice on a trolley from where he parks a block away, and then shoulders these mammoth blocks of ice down the steps to the beach for the fishermen. This is in 89 degree heat.

I watch a couple of old fishermen playing a game of checkers and from time to time someone comes to watch or offer help.

Yesterday afternoon the Senor asked me to go upstairs and relight the hot water heater as he was in the shower waiting for hot water that never came. The wind from time to time blows out the pilot light and we have learned how to relight it. I tried but it would not light, checked the stove, no gas. Of course I let Javier know who promptly called Arturo the owner. But this was late Saturday afternoon, and Arturo came to explain to me that he tried but no delivery until Lunes, (Monday). So no hot showers, no cook stove until Monday. Not a huge problem as we have a “microhondo” (microwave) for cooking if we choose, and cold showers here are more luke warm than cold. Not as pleasant as a warm shower, but not miserable. It’s Mexico and we roll with the punches.

With limited cooking facilities, and no hot water for dishes we choose to go out for Sunday brealfast at the pancake house where we each order our favorite breakfast. The Senor has 2 eggs over easy with rosemary potatoes and finally tries the sausage as the last bacon there took out his tooth. Anyone who knows me knows I’m a small eater, so I get my absolute most favorite breakfast which is prepared to perfection there, 2 poached eggs covered in benedict sauce. Beautiful and tastey!

We will spend the rest of our day with a trip to the Commercial and the bus depot to plan our side trip to Uruapan and Lake Patzcuaro. Signing off KO

SAILFEST CHILLI COOK OFF AND SAIL PARADE

One of my favorite views of Zihuatanejo taken from the pier

I’m up quite early this morning even for me. Had a fun but difficult day yesterday. Fun because I went out on the sail boat parade with a great captain, actually 2 captains, and a fun group of guests. But I have been

The Patricia Bell, one beautiful sail boat

dealing with a digestive disorder since July that chose yesterday to act up. If there was any doubt about my having this surgically repaired when I return home, yesterday has eliminated any doubts. My daughter in Washington has me set up with the appointment with the surgeon the Monday after we return.

I had two fun events planned for yesterday, the sailboat parade which is about 3 hours cruising the bay and

the waters beyond with a whole armada of other sailboats filled with happy guests. A great way to meet interesting people and spend a relaxing day on the water. I was fortunate enough to be on the “Rapscullion” which gave me the opportunity to meet Pam Bendall, the author of “What Was I Thinking” a great read about captaining her own boat, running sailing charters, sometimes single handed, and solo ocean sailing. I’m only halfway done with the book, but Henry, the captain of the Rapscullion tells me that I’m just about to get to the part about him. Pam is an interesting lady, who came from the corporate would of finance to running and maintaining her own sail boat charter business and sailing the length and breadth of the Pacific waters. While spending her life at sea she became concerned over the health of the ocean and now

: The Captains and guests on the Rapsculion, Pam far right, Henry back 4th in

does seminars at boating and yachting shows and events presenting ” If Fish Could Talk” a program that demonstrates how little we pay attention to something that isn’t “in our face” yapping at us and why we should. I have no doubt that she is an interesting and entertaining speaker that can hold an audiences attention and get to their hearts.

The second event was invitation to our friends Christine and Charlie to their lovely condo home in Ixtapa where they live 6 months if the year. Christine made beautiful tasty canapés to accompany the drinks. We were a group of 10 going to celebrate her birthday at the Lobster House for dinner and music with Jimmi Mamou as it was also his birthday. So many wonderful people have February birthdays, (me included).

Christine cutting her cake with the /Senor in the back ground

I had planned on having lobster but knew now I couldn’t, so I tried a little onion soup, no luck, so I tried some ice cream later, but this just wasn’t my night. The Lobster House isn’t a place I could recommend. After ordering the ONION SOUP , I was served tortilla soup, the waiter insisted I ordered tortilla soup even showed me where he wrote it down. I finally got what I ordered, but it was difficult to even get a second bottle of water as the waiters disappeared every time you looked for them. It just really took the edge off the day and evening as we had to leave the party early. The best part of the evening was seeing friends, meeting new ones and wishing Christine and Jimmi happy birthdays.

For a day and a half I was unable to eat drink or drink due this digestive block that comes and goes. Today I’m fine and know now that my favorite food, cheese, is no longer my friend. I will just continue to be extra careful and eat lots of Mexican yogurt that is really yummy. Signing off KO

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