Every day I learn something new

img_1151Yesterday I finally made it to the swimming pool, now I am talking about the Zihuatanejo’s Olympic size Alberca de Olympica at the sports complex.  I have been swimming there for years, quite frequently I would be one of two or three people in the pool at 8 AM,  nice for lap swimming.  A few years ago they covered the pool with a Quonset hut type roof and it kept the pool cool as the sun didn’t beat on it, but it was ice cold in the morning.  The locker room was a disaster,  gang showers that didn’t work, toilets that flushed with a bucket, doors missing and no running water.  Few gringos would venture forth, but I am dedicated lap swimmer and you would find me there most mornings at 8.  I knew they had remodeled and I hoped it would be nice and and is it ever nice.  Stall showers with actual running water, new flush toilets, sink with running water.  It is  beautiful, they did an amazing job

My next surprise was when I went to get in the pool, it wasn’t ice cold. Very pleasant to  jump right in, none of that shock of taking your breath away as you hit the water.  Now that may be just because the temperature has been so hot, or possible a heating system, time will tell.

So today my second pool day I carefully read the new signs posted where you pay at the entrance and between the sign and my conversation with the attendant in my fractured Spanish I learned I can buy a month log pass for $150 pesos.  I can swim as much as I want for 30 calendar days for that price, twice a day if I like, ( but that’s not going to happen) or I can pay 15 pesos every time I go  Even if I only swim 3 times a week I’m ahead!  I like this new system.  But the down fall is so does everyone else in town!  The pool is busy with both lap swimmers and classes.  But that’s OK, I’m up before the crack of dawn and I will just start swimming a little earlier in the morning and maybe avoid the class of 10 or so young boys racing across the pool. If you haven’t ever tried the pool or if you have and were turned off by the experience give it a chance. You should like it.

From the pool I walked over to the Megga. There is a real bad intersection to cross near the new Waldos where another lady and I stood there for an eternity kind of shaking our heads wondering if we would ever cross.  She saw a break in the traffic, grabbed my hand and we ran across the street together, safety in numbers. People here are so helpful, how can one not love Mexico.

At the Megga I discovered how to sign up for a “frequent flyer card” so maybe by the end of the season I will have enough points to save a few bucks on something special. And I bought packages of grated cheddar cheese, nothing in a block, but cheddar none the less.  Signing off KO

 

 

 

 

Festival of Turtles

Monday was our first beach day, we opted for Playa las Gattas. Rode the water taxi over with my favorite waiter of many years, Jose. He always takes good care of us. Did a little snorkeling, a little swimming and a tad too much sun.  Both Morgan and I are a bit pink in places where the sunscreen missed

As Morgan is volunteering with the Ayotlcalli Turtle Sanctuary she was to meet up with the other volunteers in Ixtapa for a children’s program sponsored by the local department of Ecology.

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Morgan and Ian and other  volunteers

I went with her as she had never been to Ixtapa where it was being held. So now she is well indoctrinated on how to get around by bus.  The turtle Sanctuary did a puppet show on the life cycle of a turtle including all the hazards they meet in the ocean, many man made.IMG_0134 Next the kids went from station to station to learn different aspects of how to protect the turtles.  Nice little program and lots of cute, bright interested kids.

We finished up the day with a “Meet and Greet” at Paty’s on La Ropa busy, but fun day even with the humidity being almost too high to enjoy the weather.  Signing off KO

Dia del Muerto and Parade of the Catrinas

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I’ve always wanted wings

What a night, beautiful, colorful and crowded, fiesta done full up! The food vendors were set up so Morgan finally got the churros she has been dreaming of.  We I visited all the alters and luckily was at the right place at the right time as two separate catrinia parades entered the Zocolo.

The alters were lit mostly by candle light but some had gotten quite creative with colored lighting. Some were very simple others quite elaborate.  Foods and drink and pictures were on display.  El centro Zihuatanejo was far more colorful than I have ever seen it.  More like our Christmas displays at home.IMG_0115 (2)

I would have to say their were hundreds of catrinias, some absolutely gorgeous, some funny and a couple a bit scary.  Parades started at several points in town and all converged at the Zocolo eventually. Their was judging of the alters and the catrinias and

I understand several thousand pesos were to be awarded.  Then to top the night off there was to be a rock concert.  My apartment is just far enough away from the Zocolo that they can party all night and not disturb me. Having a bit of trouble managing photos.  Put together a whole album but can’t get it to load.  But the above pictures are my favorites. Signing off KO

HALLOWEEN A LA MEXICANA

IMG_1872My first Mexican Halloween, I had no idea what to expect.  One thing happened that no one expected was RAIN! and bucket loads of it.  Since Steve and Brian were playing at Cate’s Legends Bar we thought we would go there and listen to the music and see what was going on.  Soon crowds of kids, most with parents following, began arriving with small bags and plastic pumpkins, some just had a bowl.  Some shouted Halloween, Halloween, some just smiled but not  one trick or treat was uttered. The bar and patrons  handed out candy until it was all gone.  When I went home a little before 10 some  kids were still splashing through the streets looking for anyone who had candy left.  The kids were in costumes, most home made and clever, some with purchased masks, most had their face painted or decorated including parents.  Frequently the parents were in some sort of costume or at least face paint. I think this will be the Halloween the kids talk about for years, running ankle deep in water from place to place to get their treats.  An interesting evening , next year I will be prepared with a bag of candy for treats.

Halloween is fun time for kids and parents, where Dia del Muerto is more celebratory and I would have thought more somber.  But here in Zihuatanejo it was also a fiesta.

Morgan and I went to watch the parade of catrinas on Calle Adelita last night and viewed many of the lovely alters that had been set up along the way and at the small cemetery. Quite artistic, thoughtful, some included pictures of past family members, foods or drinks they enjoyed.  A truly lovely sentiment and you know as they construct these alters their thoughts are about those whom they are remembering. their lives together.

The parade of the catrinas was a disappointment. I had expected beautifully painted faces, lovely costuming and what happened was a two minute passing of a group of 20 or so tightly packed together so you really couldn’t see individuals and most seemed to be in black robes white faces and then they were gone. But that is what happens when you have too high of expectations, best to keep ones mind more open

The fiesta part, was as expected, very loud music, some sort of a play was being conducted on a stage, table after table of food for sale, elbow to elbow folks visiting, laughing and enjoying themselves. Very Mexican.  Still more Dia del Muerto come today. Signing off KO

Day of the Dead Market or Mercado Dia del Muerto

IMG_0030This is my first time I have been in Zihuatanejo for this very special Mexican tradition. Dia del Muerto honors and pays tribute to loved ones who have past.  It is not macabre, it is spiritual. The belief is that loved ones spirits are with the families on this night. To honor them and show their respect, alters are constructed with flowers and food and revered items of the loved ones.  Yes they miss them, but no longer mourn them  They can now happily remember them, tell stories about them and share with the younger generation.

Hopefully I have not misconstrued anything as I am still learning.  Fortunately I have a friend and neighbor who resides here full time and has for many years to guide me to places of interest that I might not otherwise know about.  Yesterday she took us to the Day of the Dead market.  Which is a “rabbit warren” of stalls tickey tacked together overnight on the side walks just past the big mercado with overhead tarps to protect from the sun.  It was crowed with shoppers and suppliers restocking the booths maneuvering the narrow passage ways.  It was festive and fun and interesting.  Came back with a skull made of sugar and a bunch of gold flowers for our apartment. the bottom picture is all candy. Friday and Saturday there will be some displays in the Zozolo, Cancha or plazza .  All names for the same place which the center of activities for Zihuatanejo.  It consists of a large plaza, a gazebo and a recessed basketball court. Signing off KO

 

I’m Back

This will be my earliest arrival in Zihuatanejo, October 26.  I wanted to be in Zihuatanejo for day of the dead.  I know this isn’t the biggest “Dia del Muerta” but it’s a good start for me.  A “life changing event” occurred this summer and I am learning to handle it with grace.  The Senior and I had been married 23 years but he has chosen to live his life on a different path and filed for divorce. So I am moving on and am finding life as a very independent lady quite exciting, interesting and at times daunting. I’m looking forward to renewing old friendships and making many new. As usual I will post as I see interesting things to share with you.

I should add I am not arriving alone, my number 1 granddaughter Morgan, is going to be with me in Zihuatanejo for a couple of months.  She is a wildlife biologist and in between jobs just having finished a season in Alaska giving bear tours on a remote island. So I convinced her to check out the “wildlife in Z”. It worked out great as she is flying on what was the Senor’s companion fare.

We arrived at my apartment to find beautiful bouquets courtesy of my wonderful landlord and wine courtesy of my fantastic neighbor

A great welcome.

Signing off KO

Zihuatanejo, How I Will Miss You

Dear Zihuatanejo,

I will miss your lovely, warm weather. I will miss your colorful sights and sounds.  I will miss your parades, my early mornings and late nights on the balcony. I will miss all the good fish at the restaurants, and drinks and socializing at Brenda’s bar and Jimmi Mamou playing rhythm and blues. I will miss being called Catalina and attempting to inflict my newly learned Spanish on the local people.

It will be good to get home, we have a cat that has been lovingly cared for by my son Shawn and I miss him.  Well I actually miss both of them, not just the cat. I have missed all my kids, but cheap cell phone service here has kept us all in touch.

Of course I already have plans for next year.  The list of things we need to bring is growing. There is room in the entry way to our apartment that with 2 good hooks on the wall I could store a small kayak and then strap a small wheel to it to pull it the block and a half to the bay. I don’t need a sit inside one like I have at home, just a little 8 or 10 ft. sit on top plastic job.  Something to think about.

We are packed, traveling a lot lighter going home than when we came and if it wasn’t for gifts and such we are bringing home it would be lighter yet.

So Adios Zihuatanejo until late October and Hello Washington.  Signing off KO

 

The Saturday Morning Market “Eco Tianguise”

This little market appears every Saturday from about 9-2ish across from the museum next to the school. It is all organic, homemade, recycled and re-purposed. It is colorful, lively and highly social. One could attend just to see and be seen as you will surely meet friends old and new there.IMG_1104

You can find almost everything there, handmade bamboo furniture, purses and totes from coconut bark, home baked bread, squash blossoms, flavored mescal, embroidered blouses and pillow cases, paintings and art work and of course organic food and coffee.

I buy jewelry there from a lovely Senora who makes her jewelry from compact discs, bottle caps, paper and even limes. When you purchase something from her she puts it in a paper bag she made from old magazines. Zero waste.

I get the “Tamale de Championes” for the Senor’s breakfast and I usually have a vegetarian spring roll wrapped in rice paper that is very good. On other days our eco2breakfast consist of fruit, mango, grape fruit, watermelon, little bananas and the occasional egg. I do my egg scrambled with peppers and mushrooms. I think we eat much healthier here. No Jimmy Dean sausage for the Senor.

I will miss my Saturday mornings at this lovely little market. Signing off KO

The Vernal Equinox at La Chole

La Chole is a small community about 20 miles out of Zihuatanejo where an ongoing archaeological site is still being studied.  They have a pyramid, and a ball court and many artifacts from the Aztec era that can be seen in the small museum. As an event was

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Ceremony viewed from top of  pyramid

planned there I decided it would be an excellent location to experience the celebration of the first day of spring with some ancient history.

Six of us set out in the pre-dawn light to catch the bus to LaChole, well as close as the bus goes which is dropping you off in the middle of nowhere just off the highway where we planned to catch the local passajara.  But a car stopped and offered us a ride into the pyramid.  We cheerfully accepted. Saving us much hot waiting time. As we arrived at the pyramid the ceremonies had already started and they were bringing folks to the top of the pyramid in

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Local people performing regional dances

groups of 20. Once on top we were told of the significance of the different areas. As my friend Brenda is Mexican she could translate for us.  We were about the only gringos there. As we came down the pyramid there wre more ceremonies, with smudging and storytelling done with great pride and emotion.

We then moved on to the town for food drink and to watch traditional dancers. I could IMG_1888 (2)have had Iguana stew, but knowing it is illegal to kill Iguanas I opted not to.  The dancers performed regional dances from different eras. It was very colorful and beautiful to watch.  Brenda opted to be blessed

and energized in a smudging ceremony, and both she and I posed with the authentic headdresses of the Aztec dancers.  All in all it was a great day a wonderful way to celebrate spring. Signing off KO

 

 

Carnaval Zihuatanejo Style

IMG_1128Not to be confused with a “carnival” that has rides, or a Mardi Gras Carnival that takes place before Lent.  Which surprises me as this is a catholic country. While it has some similarities to a Mardi Gras carnival, it is scheduled at the whim of the local government and some years not scheduled to happen at all. It would be impossible to schedule a visit around “Carnival Time” because nobody seems to know if, or when it will happen. This year it was scheduled with the 3 day holiday weekend celebrating the birthday of Benito Juarez when town was full of visitors from the interior. .

The festivities began on Friday night with dancers performing on the stage that was set up in the basketball court in the town Zocolo, A Queen was crowned and a King of Ugly or Bad I’m not sure of the translation, all done with ear-splitting, loud and booming music and a IMG_1149short but magnificent fireworks display. The crowd was so dense it was difficult to walk through and it was impossible to get close enough to see the stage.  The back stage had a blinding,continuous, psychedelic laser light show playing.  Everything the Mexicans love in a fiesta was there, loud music, and colorful entertainment. I guess I am now part of the population that “if the music is too loud you are too old”. I’m old, the music was past being musical, it was just LOUD.

There were more festivities again Saturday night, I choose not to attend, but curled up with a good book and tuned up a movie. I learned later the volume of the music was greatly reduced. Must have been as we didn’t hear it at our apartment 3 blocks away..

Sunday was the big parade, a full 2 hours, of very large, creative floats, beautiful dancing-girls and handsome men, charming children, lots of local color, costumes and culture and yes loud music. It was a great parade. One of the best, most fun parades I have ever seen.  There was even parade participants offering spectators small samples of mescal. And of course the fiesta went on until the wee hours of the morning. You just got to love mexico.  Signing KO